Memphis, Tennessee, a city synonymous with musical innovation, has long been celebrated as the cradle of blues, the birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll, and a vital artery in the veins of soul, gospel, jazz, and R&B. From the hallowed grounds of Sun Studio to the vibrant echoes of Beale Street, Memphis’s musical heritage is undeniable. Countless artists, from Rufus Wainwright to Bob Dylan, have paid homage to this iconic city in song. Yet, among the numerous melodies inspired by Memphis, Marc Cohn’s “Walking in Memphis” stands out, not just as a chart-topping hit, but as a deeply personal narrative woven into the fabric of the city itself. Famously covered by Cher in 1995, the song’s enduring appeal lies in its authentic storytelling and emotional resonance.
“Walking in Memphis” wasn’t just a song; it was the sound of a young songwriter discovering his voice. It’s a blend of real experiences and personal reflections, tinged with a spiritual and almost mystical quality, prompting the song’s poignant question: “Do I really feel the way I feel?” The song’s success propelled Cohn’s debut album to platinum status, launching a vibrant career that continues to this day. In this article, we delve into the story behind “Walking in Memphis,” exploring how a trip to a specific place sparked a song that resonated worldwide and became Marc Cohn’s signature tune.
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Released: March 7, 1991
Artist: Marc Cohn
Label: Atlantic
Songwriter: Marc Cohn
Producers: Marc Cohn, Ben Wisch
UK Chart Position: 22
US Chart Position: 13
The Memphis Pilgrimage: Seeking Inspiration
“It all began when I was around 25,” Marc Cohn recounts, reflecting on the genesis of “Walking in Memphis.” “I was invited to Memphis by a woman I was dating. She later became my wife and then my ex-wife – a full circle journey in itself. She had this intuition that Memphis would resonate with me, that I needed to experience it. I’m not sure if she fully grasped the extent of my connection to the music born there, from soul to gospel, every genre seemed to have roots in that city.”
Around the same time, a piece of advice from James Taylor, shared in a magazine interview, further fueled Cohn’s burgeoning idea. Taylor advocated for what he called a ‘geographic’ approach to songwriting: venturing to an unfamiliar place with a guitar or keyboard to reawaken one’s creative senses. This resonated deeply with Cohn’s invitation to Memphis. “It felt like perfect synchronicity. So, I decided to go,” he explains.
Fate intervened in Memphis as Cohn’s girlfriend had cultivated friendships with a local couple who possessed an intimate knowledge of the city beyond the typical tourist trails. “They weren’t just about Graceland,” Cohn remembers, “they knew the soul of Memphis – Al Green’s church, the Hollywood Café, where the incredible Muriel Davis Wilkins sang. They became my guides, leading me on the very tour that would eventually become the song itself.”
Cohn arrived in Memphis seeking inspiration, yet he was also aware of the city’s rich musical narrative already eloquently expressed in countless songs. “There were already so many great songs about Memphis,” he thought, “could I really add something new?” Despite this uncertainty, he immersed himself in the experience. “Initially, writing a song about Memphis wasn’t even on my mind. I was there to absorb the atmosphere, the stories, the essence of the place. It wasn’t until the very end of the trip that the possibility of a song emerged, and even then, it was just a faint notion. My focus was on experiencing Memphis, not processing it for songwriting just yet. That would come later.”
Encounters that Echoed: Al Green and Muriel Davis Wilkins
The pivotal moment of Cohn’s Memphis journey, and subsequently, the song, was his visit to Al Green’s church. “Al Green was one of my absolute musical heroes. And there I was, witnessing him preach gospel for four hours. It was a sweltering August morning in Memphis, sweat pouring down my back, and Reverend Al’s voice just kept getting stronger and stronger. He was truly in the spirit, and for a Jewish kid from Cleveland, I felt as close to the spirit as I could possibly be. It was an extraordinary experience.”
This profound encounter was only surpassed by meeting Muriel Davis Wilkins at the Hollywood Cafe, a local eatery famed for its catfish and fried pickles.
Marc Cohn performing with Muriel Davis-WilkinsAlt text: Marc Cohn and Muriel Davis Wilkins share a musical moment on stage at the Hollywood Cafe in Memphis, highlighting the real-life inspiration behind the “Walking In Memphis Song”.
“The moment I saw and heard Muriel perform, there was an instant connection,” Cohn vividly recalls. “I felt an immediate affinity for this woman I had never met. She was around 65, a school teacher from Arkansas who played at the Hollywood on weekends to supplement her family’s income. Her soulful piano playing, mostly gospel and standards, captivated me.”
During Muriel’s break, Cohn approached her, expressing his admiration for her music. “She was incredibly generous and genuinely interested in my story, as you might expect from a school teacher. I told her I was a struggling songwriter, in Memphis seeking inspiration, and feeling like I hadn’t yet written songs that truly reflected my potential. She listened intently, absorbing everything.”
Later that evening, Muriel invited Cohn to join her on stage. “I was thrilled, yet terrified,” he admits. Muriel guided him through her set, prompting him with cues, and Cohn improvised melodies, harmonizing with her piano. Then, as the night drew to a close, she began to play “Amazing Grace.” “We sang it together a cappella, and the entire place fell silent. It’s a moment etched in my memory forever.”
Adding another layer to this poignant encounter, Cohn had shared with Muriel the early loss of both his parents. “At the end of ‘Amazing Grace,’ Muriel leaned in and whispered, ‘Child, you can move on now. Your mom is with you.’ It was a profoundly moving moment.”
From Memphis to Melody: Crafting “Walking in Memphis”
Returning to New York City, the experiences of Memphis began to coalesce into song. “It was a day or two after I got back that I started playing around with ideas about Memphis,” Cohn says. “I distinctly remember starting on guitar, with this arpeggiated figure in my head. But it didn’t sound quite right. I switched to piano, and instantly, everything flowed. The song came together relatively quickly, though recording it proved to be a different challenge.”
In those early days, Cohn didn’t have a regular band to workshop arrangements with. “Sitting at the piano, I wasn’t thinking about rhythm sections or guitar parts. It was just me and the piano. I knew I had turned a corner as a songwriter with ‘Walking in Memphis’ because it stood strong even in its simplest form. It begins intimately, just me, then builds with the rhythm, and eventually returns to that intimacy at the end. Capturing that dynamic with a band in the studio was complex. It took weeks and several attempts to find the arrangement that truly captured the song’s essence.”
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Walking In Memphis songwriter Marc CohnAlt text: Marc Cohn, the songwriter behind “Walking in Memphis,” reflects on how his Memphis journey unexpectedly sparked the creation of his signature song, emphasizing the power of place in songwriting.
The enduring appeal of “Walking in Memphis,” Cohn believes, lies in its narrative structure. “It’s a story with a clear beginning, middle, and end. I think people connect with the narrative, and perhaps with the sound of a new voice. I’ve often heard that it’s the last verse, the encounter with Muriel and her spiritual insight, that really draws listeners in and makes them want to hear the song again. When I wrote the line about Muriel asking if I was a Christian, I knew I was finally writing the kind of songs I had always aspired to write.”
Comparing “Walking In Memphis” to Tony Bennett’s signature song, Cohn remarks, “Tony Bennett said ‘I Left My Heart In San Francisco’ took him around the world, his ‘calling card.’ That’s how I feel about ‘Walking In Memphis.’ It has literally taken me around the world multiple times. I remain incredibly proud of it. And surprisingly, I rarely tire of singing it, even though I perform it every night on tour. I have other songs I feel equally, if not more, strongly about, but I am deeply grateful for this song and its global journey.”
“Memphis,” Cohn concludes, “was just the starting point.” In the eight months following his transformative trip, he wrote the majority of his debut album. “Most of those songs flowed out of me right after leaving Memphis and meeting Muriel, who had given me permission to ‘move on’ in a profound way. I didn’t know if I’d get signed, but I knew these new songs were on a different level. Once I had a few of them, I returned to Memphis, to the Hollywood Cafe, to play them for Muriel. She listened intently, arms crossed. When I finished, she simply said, ‘Those are beautiful songs, child. But you know that one where you mentioned me? Play that again. I think that’s the best one.’” And indeed, “Walking in Memphis,” born from a serendipitous journey and heartfelt encounters, became the song that defined Marc Cohn’s career and continues to resonate with audiences worldwide.
Stay updated with Marc Cohn’s tour dates and music news at marccohnmusic.com
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Categories
How I WroteInterviewsSpring 2021
Tagged
Al GreenAmazing GraceCherJames TaylorMarc CohnMemphisMuriel Davis WilkinsSun StudioTony BennettWalking In Memphis
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