Night + Market Song in Silver Lake presents a unique dining experience, one that challenges and delights in equal measure. To truly grasp Kris Yenbamroong’s vision for this Thai restaurant, perhaps the best starting point is the luu suk. This dish, a pool of warm pig blood brimming with fragrant Southeast Asian herbs, arrives in a humble tin bowl – the kind you might find at a bustling Asian marketplace or even tucked away in the aisles of Ikea. Fresh, pungent herbs mingle with crispy pork rinds reminiscent of Thai chicharrones, a scattering of toasted noodles, and a petite dish of sweet “MSG sauce” – the only MSG you’ll encounter here, according to Yenbamroong.
To partake in the luu suk experience, one must embrace the ritual of mixing. Herbs are stirred into the crimson broth, pork rinds are generously sprinkled atop, and the concoction is scooped up with sticky rice balls. Surprisingly, the taste is milder than its striking appearance might suggest, though be warned, your napkin may bear the marks of a culinary adventure. Luu suk is undeniably a bold proposition, even for seasoned palates. Legendary food critic Ruth Reichl, after decades of culinary explorations, famously drew the line at this particular dish.
But what is the intention behind such a dish? Is it truly authentic, even if unfamiliar? And more importantly, who is Night + Market Song trying to please?
Advertisement
The patrons of Night + Market Song are predominantly non-Thai, and it’s unlikely many grew up with a craving for blood soup. The flavors, while agreeable, are not overwhelmingly intense, especially when compared to the deeply herbal catfish “tamales” steamed in banana leaves, the fiery jungle curry, or the potent fermented Isaan sausage spheres. Even in Northern Thailand, Yenbamroong concedes, blood soup is a rarity, often enjoyed late at night by those seeking sustenance after drinks or gambling. The notion of a Hollywood crowd clamoring for a hyper-authentic version seems improbable.
So, is luu suk on the menu to cater to diners whose palates have been adventurous after experiences at nose-to-tail establishments like Animal and Night + Market’s original West Hollywood location? Is it designed for Instagram fame? Does ordering warm pig blood elevate one’s foodie credentials, even if one only nibbles at it? Or is it about the broader culinary landscape Yenbamroong is painting, where you might also encounter an intensely flavored old-hen soup with shrimp paste from Chieng Rai, robust fried meatballs with pork liver and blood, or a bitter, hand-chopped beef larb enriched with raw liver and cow bile?
These questions are central to understanding Night + Market Song. And Yenbamroong, a film school graduate from NYU, has clearly given considerable thought to his aesthetic of culinary transgression. And it’s an aesthetic that resonates deeply.
Night + Market Song embodies a minimalist aesthetic, even within Silver Lake’s unassuming landscape. A simple entryway furnished with chairs, a modest counter poised to become a bar pending an alcohol license, and a long, unadorned room painted in Mets orange, punctuated by a Cindy Crawford poster. The ambiance evokes a Downey apartment complex rec room, perhaps only lacking a slightly damaged ping-pong table to complete the picture. A Michael Jackson shrine graces the men’s restroom, and a parade banner hangs in the hall. This is Thai dining as experimental performance art.
Advertisement
Yet, amidst the avant-garde, you’ll find familiar favorites from the original Night + Market – the delectable, fatty grilled pig neck, christened pork “toro” by Yenbamroong, the honeyed grilled chicken wings, the Chiang Mai-style khao soi noodles bathed in a curried coconut broth with chicken, and the comforting crab fried rice. A playful take on the Bloomin’ Onion appears in the form of papaya salad, where shredded green papaya is battered and fried, served with the citrus and chili dressing on the side.
Chef Yenbamroong embraces dried fish, pungent Thai herbs, and a spectrum of chilies with abandon. However, it is still possible to navigate an approachable meal here. The pad Thai, spicier and more tamarind-forward than typical iterations, remains recognizably pad Thai. Slabs of pork shoulder, marinated in condensed milk before grilling, emerge sweet, succulent, and kissed by char. The crispy rice salad, nam khao tod, delivers a significant spice kick, yet the harmonious balance of tart lime juice, smoky chili, herbal sharpness, and the savory porkiness of house-cured “Spam” is undeniably captivating, as is the traditional grilled pork salad known as “startled pig.”
Ultimately, dining at Night + Market Song means engaging with Yenbamroong’s culinary vision on his terms, whether consciously or not. The crunchy, garlicky fried chicken thighs, perhaps the menu’s most universally appealing item, are paired with a fragrant, fiery Northern Thai condiment featuring roasted green chilies… and steamed water bugs. In this context, the water bugs contribute an exotic herbal note, rather than an insect-like flavor. (Their presence would likely go unnoticed without explicit mention.)
Advertisement
Instead of the ubiquitous pad kee mao, or fried rice noodles, found at the Sunset Strip location, Song presents “Bangkok mall pasta.” This intensely spicy spaghetti dish is stir-fried with toasted garlic, pungent dried fish chunks, and baby peppercorns still attached to the branch – a Thai interpretation of Italian aglio e olio, equally likely to linger on your breath for days.
Perhaps the most subversive dish, paradoxically, is also the most innocuous: rice fried with ketchup, frozen peas and carrots – reminiscent of childhood Swanson dinners – studded with raisins and “wiener blossoms,” hot dogs cut to bloom into pink, meaty flowers as they cook. Yenbamroong reveals this dish as typical strip club fare in Thailand. It’s a shame the restaurant closes at 11 p.m., as khao pad American is precisely the craving at 3 a.m.
Follow me on Twitter @thejgold
Night + Market Song
Authentic Thai or art project (or both), it’s delicious.
LOCATION
3322 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, (323) 665-5899, nightmarketla.com
PRICES
Snacks, $7-$12; dips, $9-$10; soups and curries, $9-$15; salads, $9-$12; noodles, $9-$14.
DETAILS
Dinner 5 to 10:30 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays, 5 to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Credit cards accepted. No alcohol. Difficult street parking only. No reservations. Takeout.
RECOMMENDED DISHES
Pork “toro,” nam prik ong, Burmese vegan curry, crispy rice salad, catfish larb, startled pig.
